Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Rice Fish and Humidity.


When leaving the states my mother exclaimed "I think you'll have better care than you do here!" Referring to the fact that here I don't wash my own clothes, I get three meals a day cooked for me, a doctor visits once a week, and my sheets get changed. Well while this is true, there are a few more problems too. Your clothes are soggy with sweat after 8 hours of wearing them, and while in Oklahoma these clothes dry in a few minutes, here there is not much hope. There is always more sun to make you sweat, more rain to drench you, and the combination there of, leaves a humidity that must be well over 100%. While I understand that it is a logistical impossibility, the water in the air sticks to you like a car windshield, so thick you can write messages in it for everyone to see.

Now the food is phenominal let's not get me wrong, usually starting with an orange or banana and some fruit juice for a snack before breakfast, dhosas and chapatthi with an arrange of chutneys and potato masala, then a vegetarian lunch that is mostly rice and curried red beans some bread (again chapatti) and mango juice, then a dinner. Now dinner is the time which is most likely for you to get some meat. I say it like this because it is not a certainty. Now Americans, I'm beginning to notice, eat a lot of meat comparitively. This meat laden diet keeps a certain flora of bacteria in your gut, which vegetables will not sustain. This means an upset in your little gastronomic ecosystem, meaning the bad bacteria that are there get to take up the slack caused by your new diet. The result is IBS, which I am becoming familiar with. I'm here waiting on the system to equilibriate. The waiting isn't really fun, so I take probiotics, but I still haven't noticed much of a difference. I have also recently developed some body aches. If it doesn't clear up, it may be caused by a little protist called Giardia lamblia. Some of you might know it. It's a fancy term for "I drank the water," or in my case I brushed my teeth with the water before I knew which water was ok. Another more interesting diagnosis I received for my body aches is called rice flu. It's when you have eaten so much rice that your pancreas is overworked from the sugar giving you aches and making you really tired. And on water: if you don't drink about 2 or more litres per day you will get a splitting, nauseating headache behind your eyeballs. So you see, that doctor that visits once a week? Dr. Pani is just sheer necessity until everybody settles.

Now on to a less uncomfortable note, on Tuesday we went to the largest fishing operation in Puducherry, it was 40 boats. About half fall more into the category of rafts being just large shaped logs lashed together. Other half are FRP's (fibre reinforced plastics) which are a larger composite that is more adept at clearing the breaking waves, but they are so expensive that usually 3 or more people invest in them together. That day the catches were small. The gill nets hung deep in the water but the water was rough and the fish must have been elsewhere. Each boat only yielded a small pile of assorted lizard fish, a parrot fish or two, some sardines, and a couple baskets of crab. These baskets get dragged up the beach about thirty yards or so and auctioned to women who tote them all the way to the fish market. The whole process is captivating considering I have no idea where the last piece of fish I ate in america came from.

Despite being sick, this trip has been very rewarding so far, and we haven't even left for the islands yet, where we will get to do an in depth study of trigger fish behavior. Everyone is great, me and Dale have been commiserating because we're both sick. Eleanor is great to bounce ideas off and have a reasonable and funny conversation with. Neil is one of the most knowledgable professors I have had, both about India and about his field. Tarra and Anu can get anything done that needs done, and Dipani is both a genius and a good friend to have. I just love it here!

4 comments:

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  2. Bro, minus the Giardia (which i really hope you don't actually have), sounds like you are having a great time! If they make chapatti even remotely close to how they make it in Uganda, then i am extremely jealous. Some of my friends and I tried to make some last weekend, and it turned out pretty good, but nothing like the real deal.

    If you aren't journaling, make sure you keep up the blogging. It's really helpful to have stuff to look back on when you are back in the states.

    Grace and Peace be with you, friend.

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  3. Friend,

    You are greatly missed here! But I am so happy you are enjoying your time, company, and food. I also have to comment on your posts--they are very well written and I approve of the amount of details you provide. I am thinking about you tons, and can't wait for your next update. Is there by chance a mailing address you have?

    Weed: You need to get Lyja's dad to make you some chapatti. It's bomb. Just saying.

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  4. I've been hearing that people are wondering where Grant's blog updates/Facebook activity, etc. have been lately, so on his behalf I'd like to let you all know that he is in fact alive and doing well.

    His sickness (as mentioned in the previous post) has passed and we're keeping our fingers crossed that stays that way. Grant has been doing some scuba diving out in the Andaman Islands (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andaman_and_Nicobar_Islands) along with his other classwork. He really loves it. Most of you know that Grant has a naturally curious personality, so you can imagine how this whole experience is really feeding into that curiosity.

    I don't really want to give you too much detail because I'm sure he is eager to blog when he returns to India in a few weeks. If you have been attempting to email him, Skype him, or Facebook him, please know that he is not ignoring you because he has not replied. They expected to have internet access while in the Andamans but haven't actually had any. I'm sure he will respond to you when he has internet access.

    I hear from Grant via phone every few and will let you all know if he tells me anything update-worthy. I forget sometimes how great Grant is at writing, so I will try to keep his blog's dignity intact and refrain from posting anymore with my kindergarten writing skills unless necessary. In the meantime, hang on until he returns to India.

    -Ashtin
    the girlfriend :)

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